Aug 062017
 

Alberta Ranching History at Bar U Ranch

Bar U Ranch National Historic Site at Longview Alberta, southwest of Calgary, commemorates the history of the ranching industry in Canada.

Located on 367 acres outside of Longview Alberta, Bar U Ranch is the only National Historic Site of Canada that commemorates the history of ranching. It contains a collection of historic ranch buildings that tell the story of Bar U from 1882 to 1950, and provides historical information about ranching in Alberta. Bar U Ranch was once one of a small group of corporate ranches in Western Canada.

Alberta Ranching History at Bar U Ranch

I learned the background of ranching in the area from an interpreter at the Round-up Camp. A round-up camp consisted of a chuckwagon, a bed roll wagon and tents. Round-ups were held twice a year for gathering cattle to be branded in the spring and for selecting those to be shipped to market in fall. The first round-up at Bar U occurred in 1884, the last in 1922. After the 1920s, round-up camps were not often used. Cattle were driven shorter distances to branding corrals built on the ranch or to railheads at Cayley or Brooks.

Alberta Ranching History at Bar U Ranch

Round-up camp sleeping tent

First Nations people occupied the area around what is now Bar U for thousands of years. Herds of bison roamed the grasslands of western Canada and were their source of food and material. After 1869, whiskey traders moved into Canada and began trading “firewater” to the First Nations people with devastating results. The newly formed North-West Mounted Police arrived to maintain law and order. After Treaty No. 7 was negotiated between the Canadian government and First Nations of southern Alberta, the government offered land leases to easterners and British citizens in order to make and keep the land Canadian. Settlers were needed to stop the land from becoming American by default. Later the government offered ranchers the opportunity to purchase a portion of their leased land. And so ranching began in southern Alberta. Bar U Ranch was selected as a historic site by Parks Canada because it had a good selection of original buildings, although many were not in great condition and needed restoration work.

The Bar U Ranch itself has a history dating back to 1881, when Fred Stimson, an experienced Quebec stockman, and the wealthy Allan family of Montreal formed the North West Cattle Company. They were granted two leases of land covering a total of 147,000 acres in southern Alberta, 15,000 acres of which were purchased when the government changed its leasing policy in 1891. Fred Stimson became the resident manager at Bar U Ranch. He set the foundation and infrastructure for the ranch.

George Lane purchased Bar U Ranch in 1902. He had arrived from Montana in 1884 and became foreman of North West Cattle Company. Under his ownerhip, Bar U Ranch achieved international repute. George Lane established a Percheron horse breeding operation at Bar U and kept increasing its numbers until he had the largest herd of purebred Percherons in the world. Percherons are a breed of draft horses originally from France. George Lane is most remembered as one of the “Big Four” who underwrote the first Calgary Stampede. In 1919, Edward the Prince of Wales visited the Bar U Ranch and was so impressed by the area and the cowboy life, he purchased a neighbouring ranch and named it E.P. Ranch.

George Lane died in 1925. Pat Burns, owner of a successful food empire, purchased George Lane & Co. holdings in 1927. Pat Burns died in 1937 and the Bar U Ranch came under the management of his nephew John Burns and a team of long-term employees, who introduced modern technology to the ranch.

The ranch had three different owners between 1950 and 1991: J. Allen Baker, the Wambeke family, and Melvin Nelson. In 1991, Parks Canada purchased 367 acres of the original ranch headquarters.

Victoria carriage at Bar U Ranch, historic site dedicated to commemorating Alberta ranching history

Victoria carriage among a collection of old carriages. Note the gas powered headlamps

Alberta Ranching History at Bar U Ranch

Log cabin built in 1919 was where many foremen and their families lived

Alberta Ranching History at Bar U Ranch

Storage sheds built before 1900

Alberta Ranching History at Bar U Ranch

Inside one of the storage sheds

Alberta Ranching History at Bar U Ranch

The ranch office was built in 1902 for George Lane’s bookkeeper. It was his office and residence. It also served as a Post Office and a meeting room for the Pekisko Polo Club.

Alberta Ranching History at Bar U Ranch

Cookhouse kitchen

The cookhouse was built in 1910 after the first cookhouse burned down. It was where orders of the day were given each morning and cowboys relaxed at night. The cook had a bedroom on the main floor and full time ranch hands and chore men slept upstairs in the dormitory. There were fresh baked cinnamon rolls to sample in the kitchen when I entered. At other times, there may be cookies.

Ranching History at Bar U Ranch

Cookhouse pantry

Ranching History at Bar U Ranch

Bunk House

Ranching History at Bar U Ranch

Ranching information display in the Saddle Horse Barn

A collection of artifacts along with written information in the back of the Saddle Horse barn explain details of ranching and ranching life, from clothes and saddles to ranching chores such as “mucking out” and “jingling the horses” to leisure activities. The barn was built in 1882-1883.

Alberta Ranching History at Bar U Ranch

Children of all ages can give roping a try

Alberta Ranching History at Bar U Ranch

Alberta Ranching History at Bar U Ranch

Horse-drawn wagons offer rides between the Visitor Centre and the heart of the ranch buildings. Or you can walk and check out some of the buildings along the way.

Lord Stratcona's Ride performing at Bar U Ranch

Lord Strathcona’s Ride performing at Bar U Ranch

The Bar U Ranch is open daily 10 am to 5 pm from May 15 to September 30. Check their website for special events. The day I visited, there was a musical mounted ride performance by the Lord Strathcona’s Horse regiment. Riders carried flags from each of Canadian’s provinces and territories. They wore World War I uniforms in honour of the 75th anniversary of the Dieppe Raid, a battle in which many Canadians lost their lives. It was a hot day and the wool jackets were quickly removed after the ride. If you want to see a bit of the ride, view the two short videos below.

There is a restaurant on-site in the Visitor Centre prior to the area of paid admission. The restaurant serves traditional ranch food, such as homemade soups, chillies and burgers, as well as salads and sandwiches. We had lunch there and the food was very good.

Bar U Ranch is 100 kilometres southwest of Calgary on Highway 22 (known as the Cowboy Trail), just south of Longview, Alberta. It is open daily from 10 am to 5 pm mid-May to the end of September. Admission is free in 2017. In honour of Canada’s 150th birthday, Parks Canada is offering free admission to all Parks Canada locations in 2017.

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  25 Responses to “Alberta Ranching History at Bar U Ranch”

  1. How utterly cool. I would love visiting the ranch and learning about this history. It would fun taking a bunch of pictures too.

  2. This sounds like a really unique attraction. I don’t think I’ve ever come across a place devoted to the history of ranching. Makes for a good story.

  3. I love those places where I can experience at least via my imagination and their information, the old West. Loved this look at ranching. There’s a museum that focuses on it near my hometown in Washington State love the old equipment and cabins.

  4. Very interesting to know that Canada has its own Wild West history, which as a not-very-informed American I never thought about. Thanks for the enlightenment–and the beautiful photography.

    • Pamela, I’m glad you enjoyed the post. There are both similarities and differences between the American and Canadian old west history. I also enjoy learn about the history of a place.

  5. Nice to see the “other Wild West”, and to learn more about Alberta family attractions. Looks like a great side trip from Calgary!

    • Anita, it would make a great side trip from Calgary. There are some interesting towns along the Cowboy Trail as well.

  6. thx for this post, Donna. I’m sure we would enjoy a tour of the Bar U Ranch, and learning about the history of ranching.

  7. I remember visiting Dude Ranches in Texas as a kid. Would be interesting to learn about the history of ranching in Alberta. Thanks for sharing on #TheWeeklyPostcard.

  8. Very detailed history of the Bar U Ranch. I wonder where the name came from and if it has any meaning. It sounds kind of strange to me. I have some good friends in Calgary and I might go visit this ranch if I’ll make it there again. Alberta is so beautiful! #TheWeeklyPostcard

    • Anda, your question prompted me to look up how Bar U got its name. It was named after the shape of its cattle brand.

  9. Seems like this year is the year to visit Canada. I am sure Calgary and the areas around it are full of treasures. I enjoy places like the one you are showing in here. Hope to visit one day. #TheWeeklyPostcard

  10. What a cool place! (Canada as a whole just seems like such a cool place.. in more than one sense of the word!) I’ve visited ranches in the US but never one quite as old-school. Thanks for this interesting insight to life on a ranch 100 years ago!

    • I’m glad you found this interesting Michelle.Visiting a current ranch after going through the Bar U “museum” ranch would have made for an interesting comparison of then and now.

  11. So nice to find living history. I visited the ranching museum in Texas last year and would love to see the Canada version.

  12. I am relatively new to Texas and fascinated with the ranching industry. I really enjoyed reading about the Canadian history. Very interesting!

  13. Sounds like a fun day! Plus, fresh made cinnamon rolls? Yummy…although, I can’t imagine the ranch hands getting such a treat. 😉 Thanks for sharing on #TheWeeklyPostcard!

  14. What an interesting glimpse into history! That’s cool that while there was a musical mounted ride! That would have been awesome to see! Thanks for linking up with #TheWeeklyPostcard!

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