Awed by the majesty of Canada’s Rocky and Columbia Mountains
and the history of Rogers Pass
After weeks of driving through stunning scenery along the west coast of the United States and Canada, I was becoming blasé to nature’s beauty. “More lovely scenery. Check.” My indifference vanished as my husband and I drove east from Revelstoke, British Columbia. The Canadian Rockies and the Columbia Mountains still had the power to inspire awe. We were mesmerized and silent during the 382 kilometre drive on the Trans-Canada Highway from Revelstoke to Banff, Alberta, except for the frequent times one of us said “Wow!”
As I admired the majestic scenery of snow-capped peaks, evergreen forests, deep valleys, mountain springs and rugged rock, I marvelled at what it must have taken to forge a path through the peaks.
Rogers Pass is 65 kilometres east of Revelstoke in the Selkirk Ranges of the Columbia Mountains. It is a narrow valley with steep terrain located within Glacier National Park. Its elevation is 1,323 metres (4,360 feet) and it receives heavy amounts of snow in the winter. Prehistoric people never lived in the central Selkirks because of the rugged mountains and harsh climate.
In 1865 the Government of British Columbia commissioned Walter Moberly to find a railway path through the Selkirk Range. After two expeditions, one with Albert Perry, interest waned until 1871 when British Columbia joined Canada based on the building of a transcontinental railway which would connect them with the rest of the country to the east. In 1881, A. B. Rogers, a railway engineer, was hired to find a possible route. He started his search in what is now Revelstoke based on Moberly’s recommendations. In 1882 the site which would bear his name was selected.
The construction of the railway across Rogers Pass was no easy task. A 331 metre long trestle was built to stretch across a gap in the valley wall. It was 50 metres above a rushing mountain torrent. A few kilometres away, the construction of a bridge standing 66 metres above its footing was heralded as the highest such structure in the world. The railway through the pass was completed in 1884 and the full Canadian Pacific Railway transcontinental route was completed in 1885. (The Last Spike occurred at Craigellachie, British Columbia, 48 kilometres west of Revelstoke.)
Shortly after completing the railway line, metres of snow buried the tracks and avalanches destroyed sections. Thirty-one snow sheds were built to protect the line from the worst slide paths. The first scheduled passenger train service began in June 1886.
Avalanches between 1895 and 1911 resulted in over 200 deaths. Given the peril to passengers and employees as well as immense costs of operation, the Canadian Pacific Railway prepared for a change. If the train could not go safely over the pass, maybe it could go under. In 1913 construction began on the longest train tunnel in Canada, eight kilometres through the base of Mount Macdonald.
In the 1950s another effort to cross the Selkirks started. Work began on the construction of the Trans-Canada Highway through Rogers Pass in 1956. The road opened in 1962. Prior to its opening, the road east from Revelstoke was known as the Big Bend route as it followed the Columbia River on a 300 kilometre loop from Revelstoke to Golden. That distance was cut in half and reduced to 148 kilometres via the Rogers Pass.
The highway construction faced many of the same challenges as the railway construction. Travellers pass through several snow sheds to shield the highway from avalanches at hazardous points. Earth dams, mounds and clay basins contain or regulate snow slides. There are about twenty permanent sites for mobile artillery guns used to intentionally trigger avalanches during the winter avalanche season. Rogers Pass has the world’s largest mobile avalanche control program.
Rogers Pass was declared a national historic site in 1991. The Rogers Pass Discovery Centre, a replica of an historic snowshed, contains a museum with information about the history of Rogers Pass.
Springs running down the sides of the mountains reminded me of a trip I’d taken with my family to the west coast when I was in University to visit relatives for the Christmas season. On the way to the west coast, springs ran down the mountains. On our return trip a couple of weeks later these springs had frozen and turned to ice.
Revelstoke, British Columbia is a mountain town of about 7,000 peoples. It has a thriving tourism industry, attracting outdoor enthusiasts year-round. Banff, Alberta is a resort town 140 kilometres west of Calgary. In a beautiful natural setting, it is near to skiing and hiking. Its streets are charming and lively with boutique shops and restaurants.
If you plan to travel this section of the Trans-Canada, be aware there are long stretches with no place to stop. At points the distance between fuel stops is more than 100 kilometres (60 miles). Snow tires or chains are needed in the winter. Driving the route in winter is not recommended if you are unfamiliar with winter or mountain driving. You should carry winter survival gear and check road conditions before starting off.
While the drive in winter may have you holding your breath, the drive any other time of year will simply take your breath away. It is like driving through a postcard.
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Tag Along DebJune 25, 2016 at 4:55 pm
I always have to catch my breath when I see the Rockies.
Donna JankeJune 28, 2016 at 8:32 am
Deb, it is breathtaking, isn’t it?
jacquiegumJune 27, 2016 at 6:05 am
Simply stunning! I can’t imagine ever becoming immune to such beauty:)
Donna JankeJune 28, 2016 at 8:33 am
Jacquie, I can’t imagine being immune to that beauty either.
Carolina ColbornJune 27, 2016 at 9:40 am
Donna, we drove this section last year and I was waiting for your photo of that sprawling red hotel. That also mesmerized me. What bothered us was the traffic caused by road construction. This section of the Trans-Canada highway is narrow so traffic builds up during such times. Drivers should inquire about road repair work before priceeding.
Donna JankeJune 28, 2016 at 8:34 am
Carol, good advice about checking into road construction. Unless the construction was very extensive though, I’m not sure it would stop me from driving the route – I’d just be prepared for it to take a little longer.
Janice ChungJune 27, 2016 at 12:23 pm
I was only 14 when I took a similar trip from Vancouver to Calgary and kept saying, “You’ve seen one mountain, you’ve seen them all”. Hey, I was a kid! Your post reminds me how beautiful Canada is and that I should really revisit these areas! They really are picture postcard perfect!
Donna JankeJune 28, 2016 at 8:35 am
Janice, our perspective changes as we get older, doesn’t it?
Noel Morata (@emorata)June 27, 2016 at 12:57 pm
OMG, beautiful! I would love to do a road trip like this. Hopefully I will actually get to do that in 2017 starting from Banff and do the reverse trip.
Donna JankeJune 28, 2016 at 8:37 am
Noel, you take such beautiful photographs. When you do this trip you might want to have a driver and be a passenger to take photos as you go. There aren’t a lot of spots to pull over and do that.
WendyJune 28, 2016 at 10:09 am
Donna, This is stunning. Your photos are terrific! I am always awestruck by the beauty on our international travels, and you can see some here – http://adventurousretirement.com/blog/. I forget how beautiful it it in North America. North America is definitely a bucket list trip. It seems like it could take a year, and I know it is in our future.
Donna JankeJune 29, 2016 at 7:12 am
Thanks Wendy. I think a year might not be enough.
The GypsyNestersJune 28, 2016 at 4:46 pm
Looks every bit as beautiful as I have always heard that it is. We were hoping to make it to Alberta this summer but doesn’t look like it will happen. Maybe next year.
Donna JankeJune 29, 2016 at 7:12 am
Veronica, it is a trip well worth making.
Grey World NomadsJune 29, 2016 at 4:12 am
I traveled almost the same way about 30 years ago (omg I’m old!) and loved it. I even wanted to emigrate to Canada and returned twice to visit again.
Donna JankeJune 29, 2016 at 7:16 am
This trip through the mountains is one that never gets old.
MoreTimeToTravel (@MoreTime2Travel)June 29, 2016 at 6:40 am
What a beautiful road trip. The mountains are nothing short of majestical~
Donna JankeJune 29, 2016 at 7:27 am
Irene, majestical is a good word for the mountains.
Rose Mary GriffithJune 30, 2016 at 11:14 am
What a lovely tour you’ve taken us on! The Rocky Mountain photos make me miss Red Lodge, Montana even more. Banff has long been on my to-see list, but now I’ve added Revelstoke!
Donna JankeJuly 2, 2016 at 6:06 am
Thanks Rose Mary.
Sue ReddelJune 30, 2016 at 2:21 pm
Wow, just wow! What a spectacular road trip. I know us travelers sometimes take scenery for granted but it’s really difficult when it’s this spectacular. Hope to do that trek one day ourselves. Thanks for taking us along the journey.
Donna JankeJuly 2, 2016 at 6:08 am
Sue, Wow sums it up – it was all my husband and I could say!
NancieJuly 1, 2016 at 8:07 pm
Beautiful shots, Donna. I lived in Banff in the 1970s, and always love the scenery and the gorgeous drives. I wasn’t into photography back then. Time to go back an get some photos!
Donna JankeJuly 2, 2016 at 6:09 am
The Vicki Winters Show-July 2, 2016 at 3:08 pm
Such lovely photos..
Donna JankeJuly 3, 2016 at 7:52 am